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Burberry

Burberry trench coat

Evolving Britishness.
1856 | HAMPSHIRE, ENGLAND | Thomas Burberry

Burberry began when Thomas Burberry, who was an apprentice at a fabric shop, became independent and opened a menswear store.

While developing jackets, scarves, and other items, the company developed gabardine, a material known for its durability and water resistance, in 1879. In 1888, they obtained a patent for this material and held exclusive manufacturing rights until 1917, which led to widespread recognition and the expansion of their business.

During World War I, the British Army and Navy officially adopted gabardine, and more than 500,000 trench coats made from this fabric were produced during the war. After the war, it spread to the general public as a fashion item.

The Burberry check, which remains an icon of the brand today, first appeared in 1924 as a lining for trench coats. Despite not using any brand logos, its instantly recognizable design made it popular. Years later, in 1997, Namie Amuro, then 20 years old, wore a Burberry Blue Label checked miniskirt to her wedding press conference, and also frequently wore Burberry scarves in her private life, further boosting its popularity among young Japanese women.

While Burberry is famous for its signature Burberry check, there are also various variations, such as the "House Check," which is wider and has sharper contrasts, and the "Beat Check," which combines a black base with varying shades of gray lines.

In Japan, Sanyo Shokai began selling Burberry coats in 1965, and launched Burberry Blue Label in 1996 and Burberry Black Label in 1998. Although it was well-received by a wide range of age groups in Japan, the contract expired in 2015, and production of Burberry's licensed products in Japan ceased. Currently, the UK headquarters operates directly through its Japanese subsidiary, with Burberry London and Burberry Runway as high-end lines and Burberry Brit as a casual line.

In March 2018, Riccardo Tisci was appointed as the new designer. He previously served as creative director at Givenchy and has a background in basketball wear, including collaborations with Nike. In his first collection, unveiled in September 2018, he presented items that reinterpreted Burberry's iconic checks and beige trench coats in a luxury street style, while also releasing elegant jackets and dresses that evoke British history. Furthermore, he unveiled a logo and monogram created in collaboration with British graphic designer Peter Saville, using the initials TB of founder Thomas Burberry. Attention to the brand has been increasing even further.