A "perfected yet unfinished product" that embodies the spirit of New York and reconstructs the good old days of America.
1999 | NEW YORK, USA | Daiki Suzuki

The rational details born from mass production and the warmth of a craftsman's handiwork. There are clothes that blend these two seemingly contradictory elements, becoming more comfortable the more you wear them. It's not mere nostalgia. It's a unique existence that revives the disappearing spirit of "Made in USA" in the modern age. 〈ENGINEERED GARMENTS〉. Based in New York, its products, woven with Japanese sensibilities, possess a beauty as "tools" that transcends the boundaries of fashion.

The story begins in Tokyo in the 1980s. It all started with the meeting of two young men: Daiki Suzuki, who would later become a designer for the brand, and Keizo Shimizu, who would become the founder of Nepenthes. At the time, they met at the legendary shop "REDWOOD" in Shibuya. This shop was one of the first to introduce American workwear and boots to Japan and spearheaded the American casual fashion boom. Both men, who were well-versed in Ivy League style, American casual fashion, and high fashion, resonated with each other's sensibilities and became friends who talked about clothes together.

In 1988, Shimizu became independent and founded "NEPENTHES." The following year, Suzuki joined him, and they traveled to America as buyers. They sourced excellent clothing from all over the world, bringing a fresh perspective to the Japanese fashion scene. However, in the 1990s, a major change occurred in the American clothing industry. To cut costs, many brands began closing their domestic factories and moving their production bases overseas. They were deeply concerned about the reality that their beloved "Made in USA" products were disappearing one after another. The rugged yet distinctive atmosphere of American-made goods was being lost.

"If American-made clothes that we want to wear disappear, then we have no choice but to make them ourselves." That determination propelled them to a new challenge. In 1999, Engineered Garments was launched as Nepenthes' original brand. With everything from planning to production done in New York, it was the birth of a truly "Made in America" brand.

At the heart of the brand lies a deep respect for classic American style and a unique reinterpretation of it. American traditional, military, workwear, and sportswear—each element is skillfully incorporated and translated into designs that prioritize practicality. It is not a case of "Japanese spirit, Western learning," but rather "Japanese spirit, Western tailoring." It is a rare creation that fuses the delicate sensibilities of the Japanese with the rational manufacturing methods of America.

The jacket that most strongly reflects this philosophy is the "Bedford Jacket," a masterpiece that can be considered the face of the brand. This jacket, which has been produced since the company's founding, is full of appeal. Its distinctive features are the combination of a formal peaked lapel and four patch pockets derived from workwear. When the collar is turned up, it shows a rugged look like a coverall, and when it is open, it exudes the dignity of a tailored jacket. Furthermore, it pursues "functional beauty" down to the smallest detail, such as the "change buttons" seen in vintage pieces and the reinforced fabric in areas that are subjected to stress.

Also not to be missed is the "Loiter Jacket," which evokes a sense of wanderlust. As its name suggests ("loiter jacket"), its appeal lies in its relaxed fit and lightness, making it easy to throw on like a shirt. The thoughtful details scattered throughout, such as the rolled-over front buttons and the spacious pockets, are also wisdom for comfortable everyday wear.

This approach was highly praised even in the United States, the birthplace of fashion. In 2008, Daiki Suzuki won the top prize at the Men's New Designer Awards hosted by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). As the first recipient of the award, his name became known worldwide. Since then, he has successfully collaborated with prestigious brands such as Levi's and Dr. Martens, and in recent years, his collaboration with UNIQLO has also attracted attention.

Engineered Garments doesn't aim for finished clothing; rather, it aims for "finished unfinished products." When a garment leaves the factory, it's not yet complete. A garment is only truly complete when someone wears it, it gets worn and damaged in daily life, it gets washed, and it takes on the wearer's unique character.

In the ever-changing world of fashion, they stubbornly continue to advocate for "timeless values." If you're looking for clothing that will be a lifelong companion rather than just a fleeting trend, then this is the brand for you. The tough fabrics, imbued with the spirit of New York, are sure to add a touch of drama to your everyday life.