From cowboys in the wilderness to movie stars. The innovative denim loved by James Dean.
1889 | KANSAS, USA | Henry David Lee
Cowboys speeding across the vast Kansas wilderness, kicking up dust. Or, in the 1950s, actors playing tormented youths wear it, shouting as if venting their pent-up emotions in memorable scenes on screen. Born as practical workwear, Lee is a rare brand that has been elevated to a cultural symbol in the name of fashion. Unraveling its history is nothing less than a journey tracing the lineage of America's pioneering spirit and the rebellious spirit of its youth.

The story begins in 1889 in Salina, Kansas. The company founded by Henry David Lee was initially not a denim manufacturer, but a wholesaler dealing in food and general merchandise. However, frustrated by the quality of the workwear he received, he decided to create "clothes for working men" himself. Among them, the "91-J," developed in 1922 as an engineer's jacket for railroad workers, became known as the "Loco Jacket" due to its functional pocket placement and tough construction, and remains a masterpiece that fetches high prices in the vintage market even today. Incidentally, it's worth noting that the cute mascot character "Buddy Lee," created for promotional purposes, was born the previous year, in 1921.

Lee's true strength lies in its close relationship with cowboys. In 1924, the "101" pants, commonly known as "cowboy pants," were created with durability to withstand strenuous activity. The design was thoroughly practical, eliminating rivets to avoid damaging the saddle, the most important tool for cowboys, and adopting pocket shapes that made it easy to access items even while mounted on a horse. Then, in 1927, a revolution occurred that rewrote the history of denim. The "101Z" was born, the world's first pants to use a zipper fly. This invention, which brought functionality and convenience to the world of work pants where button flies had been the norm, positioned Lee as an "innovative brand."

In the 1950s, Lee transcended mere workwear and transformed into a cultural icon for young people. The decisive moment in this transformation was brought about by the legendary actor James Dean. His appearances wearing his beloved "101 Riders" jeans in films such as "Rebel Without a Cause" and "Giant" shocked young people around the world. It was the moment when denim, which had previously been nothing more than workwear, was recognized as a symbol of rebellion against adult society and freedom. The silhouette, which is still talked about today as "James Dean denim," exudes a stylish Midwestern vibe, in contrast to the East Coast Levi's, and has been imprinted as an eternal image of youth.
Lee also has a masterpiece that protects men from the cold winter winds: the "Storm Rider." This model features a highly insulating blanket lining and a corduroy collar, based on the "101J" jacket that was born in the 1930s. Named "Storm Rider" because it was a favorite of cowboys when herding cattle in the winter wilderness, its rugged yet refined design is also known for being worn by Marilyn Monroe during entertainment tours of the Korean War, making it a landmark outerwear piece loved by people of all genders.

Furthermore, an essential element when discussing Lee denim is its "left-hand twill" construction. Unlike typical right-hand twill, weaving with a left-hand twill, which aligns with the direction of the yarn's twist, creates a unique luster and soft texture. And as it ages, it develops a beautiful "vertical fade," where the color fades in linear patterns. This is the very essence of Lee that continues to captivate discerning men.

Furthermore, the brand's philosophy is also embodied in the stitching on the back pockets. The gently curving "Lazy S" stitching is said to be inspired by the shape that protects a horse's mouth, or to mimic the horns of a Long Horn cattle. And then there's the black and gold tag, the "Pisname," sewn onto the pocket. These are Lee's identities, instantly recognizable even from a distance.

Throughout its more than 130-year history, Lee has consistently pursued "functionality" and "innovation." Becoming a companion to workers and cowboys, it eventually changed the history of fashion alongside movie stars. Its journey has certainly not always been smooth. But that's precisely why Lee denim feels imbued with the gritty yet beautiful essence of human endeavor.

I want you to pick up a pair of faded Lee jeans. You'll feel the Kansas breeze, the spirit of the pioneers who raced through their era, and the flair of movie stars breathing within them. They're not just vintage clothing; they're living history itself, embodying masculine romance.