Questioning common sense, clad in venom. A solitary butterfly that captivates the world.
1995 | TOKYO, JAPAN | Keizo Shimizu
Is harmony the only right answer in fashion? Sometimes, it's a "discrepancy" that stirs the soul that becomes a powerful individuality, transforming into an allure that captivates the viewer. The garment, adorned with a fluttering purple butterfly, embodies a free spirit unbound by existing rules, along with a hint of venom.
Needles is a brand that, while based on rugged men's clothing such as American casual, workwear, and military styles, exudes a certain alluring and borderless mood. The unique charm that this brand possesses is not merely eccentricity. It is the ultimate playfulness arrived at by a "connoisseur" who has been observing clothing from all over the world for a long time.
The story's origins lie in "NEPENTHES," a legendary select shop in the Japanese fashion scene. Since its establishment in 1988, founder Keizo Shimizu has traveled the world as a buyer, continuously introducing outstanding products to Japan that had not yet been seen. His selections, filtered through his discerning eye, had a tremendous influence on the fashion-conscious kids of the time and garnered enthusiastic support.
Having fully expanded the possibilities of US imports, Shimizu, armed with his unique aesthetic sense, traveled the world for purchasing and custom-made products, while simultaneously starting his own original line. However, in the 1990s, the ideal "Made in America" products became scarce due to factory closures and other factors. But this scarcity, conversely, only deepened the outline of their uniqueness. "If what I want doesn't exist, then I'll express what's inside me from scratch in Japan." From that impulse, the brand was launched in 1995. Backed by Shimizu's global experience, solidly crafted designs are brought to life with Japan's world-class materials and sewing techniques. This is what makes Needles truly one of a kind.
The brand name has two meanings. One is "Needles," which are essential for making clothes. The other is a wordplay on "Need-less" (nothing more than necessary). Herein lies a glimpse of his philosophy of stripping away excessive ornamentation and functionality and pursuing essential appeal.
Needles' style can be summed up in one word: the aesthetics of "deconstruction." While based on basic American traditional style, it boldly mixes in Japanese elements and psychedelic elements such as 70s hippie and bohemian influences. This willingness to effortlessly transcend the boundaries of conventional coordination can be seen as a manifestation of the punk spirit that rejects predictable harmony.
One item that perfectly embodies this is the "track pants," which have now become a global fashion icon. Originally sportswear, jerseys were often considered unfashionable and avoided in the context of fashion, but Needles elevated them into a leading piece of bottoms. With a beautiful slacks-like silhouette featuring a center pleat, a wide line running down the side, and a butterfly embroidery fluttering at the waist, they are relaxed wear that also possesses the sophistication to fit well with a jacket style, while also having a rebellious street vibe. Their popularity has been solidified when they are worn by well-liked celebrities both in Japan and abroad.
Another staple for autumn and winter, enjoying a cult following, is the mohair cardigan. With its long fibers and fluffy texture, mohair knit is an icon of grunge fashion, famously worn by Kurt Cobain. Needles' version combines vintage-like patterns such as argyle with a unique sense of color, exuding a modern allure. Simply throwing it on creates a decadent yet luxurious atmosphere.
Furthermore, the line "REBUILD by NEEDLES," which deconstructs and reconstructs vintage clothing, is not to be missed. The "7-Cut Shirt," which cuts seven different flannel shirts and sews them together, is a technique that only Keizo Shimizu, who has a deep understanding of vintage clothing, could achieve. No two of these garments are exactly alike, making them an antithesis to mass-produced goods and like art pieces that powerfully highlight the individuality of the wearer.
Needles' clothing may possess a certain "strength" that makes it selective in who can wear it. However, that strength is precisely why it continues to attract adult men who are tired of standardized trends. A stance that never plays it safe, but keeps pushing forward. A willingness to embrace the unconventional and wear it as one's own unique allure. If you are looking for that "thrill" in fashion once again, you should try on this garment with a butterfly fluttering across the left chest. There, a thrilling world unfolds that vividly defies the predictable routines of everyday life.